From 9th to 19th July 2022, 8 participants and a Mountain leader from Birmingham University Officers Training Corps took part in Ex DRAGON SLIM SHADY an adventure training expedition that aimed to complete the GR20 Nord route in Corsica; a route known as one of the toughest in Europe. The route climbs up 2500 meters and consists of a few challenging scrambles. While completing the expedition the participants were developing their leadership and resilience skills whilst gaining their Summer Mountaineering Foundation Qualification.
On 8thJuly the participants met at BUOTC Army Reserve Centre so kit could be prepared and a good night rest had before making a prompt 0600 start on the following day to make the 1130 flight from London Heathrow to Paris in good time. After a change of planes and boarding a second flight from Paris, the team arrived in Calvi, Corsica. The flight path had provided an excellent view of the mountains that we would be conquering in the coming days, so when the team left the plane and the heat of Calvi hit them, there was an air of excitement and a hint of nervous anticipation felt by all.
What the group didn’t know was that their first mountain to climb was closer than expected, this being more of a metaphorical mountain of how to survive without luggage. Unfortunately, the team’s luggage containing their tents, sleeping systems and everything needed to live for the next 10 days didn’t turn up! A plan was quickly established, and the team travelled to Calenzana for the night, staying in tents from the refuge and surviving on toiletries gifted by the airline. We hoped our luggage would arrive in the next 24 hours!
On the 11th, food and gas were purchased as per the plan and the team used this day to acclimatise to the heat. In the evening a phone call that the luggage had arrived was received, and the group was excited that not only would we be starting the hike tomorrow but also that they’d get a clean change of clothes! However, this can only be described as a false summit with only 8/9 bags arriving. The missing bag being that of our Instructor! After a team discussion of different ways to overcome the issue, it was decided that we would await the arrival of the bag until the 12th July, when we were told that the next flight from Paris to Calvi was and if it hadn’t arrived by then, replacement kit would be purchased from ‘Intersport’ and the trek would begin on the 13th.
It was decided that it would be better, while waiting for the luggage to arrive, that we went to Calvi to be closer to the airport if it did turn up and for team moral as there was little to do in Calenzana. On the 11th and 12th, while waiting, we practised our navigation skills, prepared our kit, and discussed the SMF content needed before departing for the expedition, as well as cooling off from the heat by swimming in the sea. Although everyone wanted to begin the trek, the preparation time was valued by the team. Much to the ML’s disappointment his bag still didn’t turn up on the 12th but as per the contingency plan, the next morning replacement kit was brought from Intersport and the hike began the morning of the 13th. Already, before starting the hike, the team had developed their adaptability and resilience skills and had experienced how ‘no plan survives contact with reality!’
After days waiting to begin the hike, the team were ready to tackle the real mountains of Corsica and were excited to begin the GR20. Having made the decision with the ML to only complete the first 5 days of the GR20 due to reduced time frames, at the start point the team were briefed on the plan. Despite the reduced walking time, the mountain leader made it clear that we were still walking the toughest part of the GR20 and that this route would still offer a challenge – in which it did not disappoint.
Day 1 of the GR20 is described in the guidebook as ‘the baptism of fire’ to beginning the trek and having begun the route at a time approaching the mid-day heat, the first day was certainly a challenge to all. The team walked 12km from Gite D’Etape to D’Ortu di Piobbu, ascending 1550 meters and descending 235 meters and when reaching the campsite, we started our daily ‘morale booster’ tradition of having a can of coke to end the day. Evening admin, such as cooking and filling up water for the next day was conducted and the day finished with the team watching the beautiful sunset feeling positive about the next day of walking.
We began the walking on day 2 at 6am to avoid the hottest heat of the day. This day was described as a very tough day in the guidebook, in which it was indeed. Following the previous days ascent, the 750 meters climbed on this day felt easier, however, the descent was the real challenge. Descending 1050 meters over unsecure and, what could be described, as ‘ankle twisting’ terrain, the walk became a real mental and physical challenge. The team moral remained high and being able to see the refuge in the distance, even if with every step it felt like it was getting further away, helped the team complete the day. A member celebrating their birthday on the 14th of July meant that the cokes were paired with a piece of cake from the refuge to end the day on a high.
The early starts continued for the team and day 3 of walking commenced at 6am on the 15th of July. This day required the use of chains and some scrambles so there was excitement throughout the group when we set off. The walk began with a bridge crossing and then we began ascending along with the sun rising which was beautiful. As the temperature was reaching at least 30 degrees each day, we were lucky that the route provided shade and that when it didn’t, the clouds provided cover from the sun. This day only covered 5 miles in distance however, the challenging terrain meant that it still took 6 and a half hours to complete. The refuge we stayed at Ascu Stagnu, was one of the best on the route. In the winter it is used as a ski resort so it had 2 restaurants, 2 shops and even phone signal! It also had a ski lift which looked a very appealing alternative to getting up the mountain rather than hiking the next day. In the evening we all had a burger from the restaurant to mark being over halfway through the trek and to ‘carb up’ for a longer day’s walking in the morning.
The team agreed that the earlier we start the better so day 4 began at 5am. We left before the sun had risen so the steep incline to come was covered by darkness which, with hindsight was probably a positive so we couldn’t see the 3 hours plus of climb we had in front of us. With only head torches and the moon providing light, the team put their heads down and concentrated on the steep incline of the mountain. Positive team encouragement was given when needed which really helped all the team make it to the top. 1250 meters climbed before 9:30am – that was an achievement! The ascent was followed by a 1230-meter descent, however riding the high of making it to the top, it was soon completed. The refuge was near a river so to cool off from the days walking and heat the team relaxed in the water.
The final days walking began at 4am. Again, as we began walking in the dark, the red and white markers of the GR20 path were harder to see, which led to us coming off the route for a small time. However, this was quickly realised and our steps were retraced back to the markers which reassured us we were on track. Overall, the final day was a lot easier than the previous 4 days, only having a steep incline at the start and the rest of the walk being descent or on the flat, and as the team were being driven by the fact it was the final stretch, we arrived at the bus station with enough time for a final coke and a French baguette.
The team had completed the first 5 stages of the GR20 and despite a few complaints that ‘our feet were in clip’ or that the heat was ‘redders’ everyone was overall positive. The smiles, perhaps with pride of completion or relief that the trek was over showed that the challenge of the hike was worth it and that everyone had a positive experience to take from it.
One Officer Cadet who took part in the expedition said:
‘Completing the summer Mountain Foundation Course on the GR20 in Corsica was one of the most challenging and rewarding experiences. It met the aims of AT; stretching our comfort zones and proving our capability through the anticipated challenge of the terrain and climate as well as through the less anticipated strategic challenges presented when our baggage was lost and delayed. As a team, we had an amazing and gruelling few days scrambling up and over rocky edges, scaling steep ascents and descents, whilst carrying around 20 kilos of kit making us completely self-sufficient. The sense of comradery and achievement having finished is yet unrivalled, and the experience was one that I will never forget.’
To return to Calvi, we took a bus from Hotel Castel di Vergio to Corte, where we then caught the train to Calvi, changing at Ponte Leccia. This journey allowed time for the team to reflect on the days just spent hiking. We all agreed that our teamwork and mental and physical determination were all developed and challenged throughout the trip and hence we have all pushed our comfort zone. We also discussed how the GR20 has developed us as mountaineers, teaching us how to successfully walk on different terrains and in different climates. The expedition also inspired participants to begin building up quality mountain days to be able to complete their Mountain Leader course in the future.
On arrival in Calvi, we went in the sea, which provided a view of the mountains we had just walked. This provided a sense of achievement to the days we had spent trekking and from the relaxation of being in the sea, it was hard to believe that we were ever the sweaty hikers we could see exiting the train in the distance beginning the trek we had just completed. In the evening we had a celebratory burger and chatted over the previous week’s highlights and lowlights.
Now classifying ourselves as ‘true mountaineers’ we decided that the 5km walk to Calvi Airport looked minimal in comparison to what we had just covered. Hence we decided to walk to the airport leaving at 0600, to make our 1030 flight home, getting there early in hope of obtaining the missing luggage, as well as having more time in an air-conditioned room. The luggage had turned up during the time we were walking and our ML was reunited with his kit, which looked pristine in comparison to our bags that had been lugged over the hills. The travel day went smoothly and this time the baggage arrived with us, as did the hot weather from Calvi and when we arrived in Heathrow it was a record temperature.
Having helped plan and deliver the expedition, I have learnt a lot about time management, leadership and adaptability when plans change. I will remember this expedition, and have the lessons learnt, for the rest of my life. I hope by planning this trip, other Officer Cadets will be inspired to plan one similar in the future and through the success of the trip, students will be inspired to join the unit.
A big thank you to the Ulysses Trust for helping support this expedition. The funding helped reduce the cost of the personal contribution for the participants and helped deliver a low cost, and high-quality challenging Adventure Training Expedition. We are looking forward to planning more in the future.
Report written by OCdt Atwell, Exped 2IC.
