CADET CENTRE FOR ADVENTUROUS TRAINING (CCAT)
EXERCISE CADETROCK VENTURER 2022
Major Kevin Edwards OC CCAT
A group of Cadet Force Adult Volunteers (CFAVs) assembled at Manchester Airport to fly to Spain in search of winter sun and dry rock. The aim of the CCAT rock climbing concentration course is to provide the opportunity to further develop the skills of selected CFAVs in a challenging multi pitch climbing environment to gain unique logbook experience on the pathway towards achieving NGB Instructor qualifications. The 1:1 ratio steered the content and direction of the course so it could be tailored to the needs and ability of the students enabling everyone to achieve the maximum benefit from the 6-days climbing.
For many years the Costa Blanca region has rightly been regarded as one of the best destinations anywhere for winter sun climbing, with the temperate climate and massive amount of rock climbing available, attracting climbers from all over the world. The variety, quality and extent of the climbing is unsurpassed from roadside single pitch to long full day multi pitch rock climbs.
The Albir Gardens Resort and Sports Hotel is moderately priced and provides a central base location. The weather throughout remained dry, warm with the occasional chilly breeze.
The advantage of an early 0630hrs morning flight is that there is time to maximize the day. Lunch, shopping in the supermarket for the first few days packed lunches and a comprehensive safety briefing completed. The core theme of this expedition was the team being given the responsibility and engaging in the risk management process. This gave them ownership for assessing the risk factors and making the decisions on how we would manage the environmental conditions that influenced the daily plan.
There was still a few hours of daylight so we decided to head out to a local single pitch crag for an initial climbing shake out and refresh the key skills before we launched fully into the programme.
Day 1
John – we split into two groups, one to Toix West and the other to Echo valley. Toix West has some superb views across the Costa Blanca coast line. The climbing was amazing and the venue provided a good selection of multi pitch routes that were not too challenging. This allowed me to build my skill both at the belay stations and for abseiling.
Vince – Had a great day with lovely weather climbing on Toix West. Seconded two routes on multi pitch climbs. Regaining my confidence and re-learning rope work systems and updating with new techniques. Excellent instruction and encouragement from Ali.
Hannah – Today was myself and Meg’s first full day spent soaking up the sun on two crags in Echo Valley. A picturesque setting for our first multi pitch, Via Ester Grade 4+, which takes the arête to the summit. Matt and Kevin (our instructors) swiftly lead up to the first pitch with ease as Meg and I stood at the bottom contemplating how we were going to get off the ground. Armed with chalk and a positive mindset we followed in their footsteps. After some coaching and encouragement from the instructors we moved through the next 3 pitches in ‘style’ before topping out to a ridge scramble and a magnificent view. I did have a moment of difficulty on the 3rd pitch, but a quick word with myself and a reminder of Kevin’s saying ‘we are not going to try to complete this, we are going to complete this’ and I carried on my way. This was followed by a quick stop at Echo 1.5 where we completed 2 single pitch sport routes. Meg gained confidence in leading some delicate routes, whilst I channeled my ‘inner ‘gazelle’ and succeeded in climbing routes gracefully, learning to take more small steps with my feet and think carefully about my foot placement. A great first day out and a brilliant start to the week.
Day 2
Hannah – we went to Sierra De Toix to tackle some single and multi- pitch sport climbs. It was my first ever multi-pitch sports experience, and whilst enjoying the beautiful views, I followed Kevin up the pristine rock, starting to take note of how he had set up the belay at each stance. My second multi-pitch was Espolon Limaban a top 50 route! A climb of two halves. An easy first pitch, followed by a very cheeky layback. I was very grateful of the coaching from Matt to encourage me up and tweak my techniques, which resulted in a smooth climb. After a hard graft, I met Kevin at the top, buzzing about my achievements. After a quick break, I completed my first sport lead ascending Asombroso, learning the skills required to safely lead and thread the anchors. A day of firsts!
Meg – I jumped straight into leading mode! Most of the routes were alternate leads with Matt, ranging from grade 4 to 5, some delicate moves made it an exciting day. Very grateful for some mental coaching from Matt about managing fear and keeping the flow of the route whilst in precarious positions. After the first two routes I pushed myself to try a grade 5 with some overhanging moves; a nemesis of mine, but managed to ascend the route without resting. Pushing myself to keep the climb flowing in one go made completing the route that much more satisfying. After getting to the top I let out a whoop and shook off my arms (which were pumped) then brought Matt up the route. After my leading Matt took me to the side and taught some rope work techniques in preparation for future qualifications, escaping the system and different hoisting methods. Overall a great day.
John – Today was spent at Marin. Brilliant day with the most amazing climbing completing two of the top 50 routes in the Costa Blanca. Today ended with some lead climbing, a nice progression.
Vince – A glorious day at Marin Craig. Seconded with Ali taking onboard his advice from yesterday that helped to improve my climbing and slowly rebuild my confidence.
Day 3
Hannah – a day of multi-pitch sport climbs for me. My first time leading this type of route. Another first!! Firstly route was a top 50 climb, Jhony, a nice warm up as I quickly ascended the gentle arête to the first stance. Remembering what Kevin had taught me I set up the belay on the first stance. Kevin quickly joined me on the stance before continue on to the top where I joined him and we made a quick scramble back down to the bottom ready for the second climb. The next route, Prats, was another top 50 climb which had a ‘cheeky’ little start which Kevin tackled with ease. He led the first pitch and I then followed up and continued on to the top with the 3+ part of the route. Feeling confident with how well the climbs had gone, we decided to tackle Agust 4+, a step up from the previous two ‘but go big or go home right’. I opted for the first pitch and was surprised at how well I got up it. A few thought provoking moves but all very enjoyable and absolutely buzzing from smashing my first 4+ lead. Another great day- confidence gained, more routes bagged and some more rope work remembered.
Vince – a great day at Toix East with some long multi pitch climbs. Added even more learning points and techniques to my toolbox. The climbs ended with long 60m abseils with more systems and different descent techniques.
Day 4
Vince – a superb day leading on single pitch climbs. Nine climbs, seven of which I led. My confidence has increased and I’m told by Ali my foot work is getting much better, not quite ballerina standards yet, more ballerina in hob nail boots! Thanks again to Ali for encouragement and instruction.
Day 5
Hannah – today we tackled a big multi-pitch route, the stunning 120 metre face of Orihuela. We shared the first pitch before splitting into two teams- Meg and Matt (the speedy ascenders) took on Sombra Luna, whilst Kevin and I took on Derecha del Espolon. Meg and Matt’s route was delicate climbing with positive holds and great friction. The first pitch although supposed to be 4c felt far harder, with each bolt having a different post code! Matt flew up his 6a slab with ease, followed by Meg who then smashed the final two pitches to the top. After completing our first pitch Kevin led our cheeky second pitch which again felt tricky. High fives to Kevin for making it look so easy, as I had serious words with myself on the crux move half way up before pulling it together and getting on with it. We quickly scurried up the third and fourth pitch to meet Meg and Matt at the top- after 120m of climbing taking off my climbing shoes was the nearest thing to heaven! After a quick bite to eat and taking on some fluid we scrambled up to the via ferrata section and moved across to the abseil point. We safely descended to our well-earned lunch and surveyed the massive ‘mountain’ that we had just climbed. A warm day but a great achievement.
Gauging by the response from the students it would be safe to say that this exercise was a huge success. Each person ascended over 1000mts of climbing in the six days. Without doubt the technical rock climbing skills and ability of all the CFAVs have significantly developed beyond their expectations and the experience as a whole has had a key influence on their personal growth.
The trip could not have been achieved without the help of grants from the Ulysses Trust and the efforts of the instructors in facilitating the development of the students’ climbing.
