A trek over the Pyrenees in the footsteps of the Prisoners of War that made this their escape route during WW2.
Background: During WW2 Saint Girons was in the occupied zone of the South of France and it was from here that PoWs would jump off the train and head into the Pyrenees to attempt their escape into Spain. This was one of several “lines” that people would take for their escape, guided by the brave Passeurs who led them across the mountains.
Following a suggestion to follow in their footsteps and cross over the Pyrenees from France into Spain, a plan was hatched, followed by several months of planning and paperwork by the expedition leader, to ensure that there was agreement in place from the Unit’s HQ and AATG, all the funding was in place, a robust med plan was in place, and all the other authorisations were gained. Lastly, but by no means least a total of 14 people were selected for the exercise, which included our lead instructor and a 2-person admin team – essential for moving the vehicles while the trekking team crossed over the Pyrenees – and so the hotel, campsite, Eurotunnel and Ferry bookings were made.
Apart from the amazing experience such an expedition would be, the aim was to conduct Distributed Training for Service Personnel in order to gain Summer Mountain Foundation qualifications and to train for further qualifications. Adventurous Training is also a vital tool to conduct Leadership Development, as well as an opportunity to refresh the British Army’s values and standards, and to improve physical and mental resilience and robustness.
An advance party of 3 made their way to France on 14th September, arriving a little later than anticipated at the overnight stop in Le Mans due to a 3 hour Eurotunnel delay. It was basic accommodation, but the beds were comfortable, the breakfast was good, and we managed to make sure everything was in place for the arrival of our main party who would arrive on 16th September. A further day of driving down the West of France saw us arrive in Saint Girons late-afternoon.
In order to keep within the remit of Adventurous Training, our accommodation, when not travelling, was at campsites. Our first site was the Parc de Paletes site on the outskirts of Saint Girons. Part of a larger holiday park, complete with static vans, outdoor swimming pool (unfortunately out of use now as we were just outside the main holiday season), a restaurant and bar on site, and electric hook-up so we could charge our phones!
The Advance Party spent the next couple of days wisely; familiarising with the local area and the local shops for supplies, walking part of the trail so we could familiarise ourselves with the signage and terrain, and driving to the several checkpoints along the route where the Admin Team would be able to provide support to the main trekking group.
Day 2 17th September saw the arrival of the Main Party who had a good journey down; not only had they not had any delays at the Eurotunnel, but they had also managed to get an early crossing, so arrived in Le Mans in good time to appreciate the town and get dinner. On arrival in Saint Girons on 18th September the main party were more than happy to see that the advance party had set their tents up for them; so after a long drive they had a site brief, some time to relax, a good sort through their kit ready for the next day, and then a good meal at the on-site restaurant.
Day 3 We had a reasonably early start for our acclimatisation walk today as it was still quite hot at the peak of the day. This was a good opportunity for a shake out after the best part of 2 days’ travelling, as well as getting to feel comfortable with our rucksacks and walking poles, ready for the main trek. Being at the foot of the Pyrenees it was never going to be a flat walk, undulating throughout with a couple of cheekily steep bits for good measure!
Later the 6 people selected to conduct their Summer Mountain Foundation (SMF) training started their lessons with our Mountain Leader; not just navigation and the technical stuff of hill walking, but the AT streams available and the progression through the qualifications that are available.
Day 4 trek – 19 Sep The trekking party of 12 were dropped off at the start point in Saint Girons, by the Pont de le Chemin de la Liberte for the obligatory start team photo. With the weather still very warm, 2 groups headed off: the SMF group with the Mountain Leader (ML) and the remainder who were a little more experienced with the MLTs. It was a long day’s walk, heading out through the forested foothills, and covered about 24km and an elevation gain just over 1000m.
As well as meeting us at the half-way point of our walk, the admin team had moved camp for us while we were out. They collected us at a pre-agreed point near Aunac that was accessible by road to take us down into the village of Seix, and the campsite, once again, did not disappoint. Just on the outskirts of Seix the site also had a swimming pool, but this one was open, so a few of us made the most of it before tending to blisters and heading into town for pizzas, piled high with the local cheese!
Day 5 trek – 20 Sep The admin team dropped us off nice and early at the same spot they collected us from yesterday, although we waited a little while before setting off as a flock of sheep were being brought down off the hills to be transported to their winter home, and we just happened to be stepping off from the same place they were being loaded up into their lorry. It was a nice opportunity to see how the locals do things and little did we know that we would see the shepherd again…
Even though we had a shortish day today at 17km and elevation gain around 1200m, the inclines were definitely steeper which made it much harder work to cover the same distance.
After checking in with the admin team at the Col de la Core, we carried on to our stop for the night at the un-manned Subera Hut, not knowing if anyone else would be there. On arrival we were welcomed by the shepherd who owned the hut who was there with a couple of his family members, and there was also a backpacker from London there who managed to step in as our interpreter for the evening. The weather had got cooler so the fire they had going inside the hut was most welcome, and several us were able to sleep inside the hut while the hardier trekkers camped outside. The shepherd explained that his hospitality was down to the “spirit of the mountains” which stemmed from the plight of the WW2 escapees, and meant that you should offer as much as you can and be as hospitable as you can towards anyone you meet up in the mountains.
Day 6 trek – 21 Sep What a way to start the day with fantastic views across the mountains and valleys below. This was a particularly difficult day; again, not so much because of the distance, a mere 11km, but on account of the elevation of 1400m and its steepness and technicality, both going uphill and downhill. This was definitely a day that challenged many of us, but the ML and MLTs in the group made sure that we all safely got to our destination that evening.
On the way we also passed the site of the RAF Halifax aircraft that had come down on a training flight at the Pic du Lampaou in 1945. The remains of the aircraft were left in situ as a memorial and a plaque mounted on a nearby rock naming those who had lost their lives. Here we paid our respects before carrying on with our journey. We also saw herds of wild horses on our travels, not something we really expected, especially so many of them at such altitude.
The night was spent at a manned mountain hut, the Refuge Les Estagnous at 2246m, and just a few kilometres from the border across into Spain. This had been booked in advance for us and we were greeted by the hosts and rushed inside so as not to miss evening meal (which had also been booked ahead for us) – a hearty 3 course meal – friendly staff and guests, a fire to dry off our kit (as we’d had a fairly damp day), and showers to freshen up before bed.
Day 7 trek – 22 Sep With an early start to the day planned for our final part of the trek into Spain, we had our breakfast, collected our packed lunches and headed out once more into the mountains. Even though this was the last leg of our journey it was still hard work: 13km, elevation gain of 500m, as well as the steep descents to our pick-up point at Pont de Perosa. Despite our aching limps and sore feet everyone was talking and laughing together as we arrived at our rendezvous with the fabulous admin team who met us with snacks and drinks before driving us over more mountains into the town of Vielha and a hotel for the night. The hotel Blu Aran was superb, set above the town and with fantastic views, it was just a short walk (or drive) into town where we were able to relax and try some local fare at a great little restaurant called the Woolamooloo.
Day 8 Straight after breakfast we were back on the road for the journey to Santander. Ironically the most direct route being to drive back into France and then along the autoroute north of the Pyrenees to cross the border again into Spain on the west coast and on to Santander. As we had made an early start, and the weather was warm and sunny, we were able to sort out all the expedition kit in the large carpark, making sure that everything was dry, and anything borrowed was handed back ready to go back to the loan pool. We then had a little bit of time to stretch our legs and explore before dinner.
Days 9 & 10 A slow-time start on our final day in Spain, before driving the short distance to the ferry terminal to join the queue for our 2pm ferry. Once on board we made ourselves at home in the cabins that had been booked for us and had a good look around the ferry – our home for the next 29 hours.
The Bay of Biscay took its toll on many of us as we tried to eat our dinner, so an early night was in order! But as the seas calmed we were able to enjoy the rest of the journey, taking part in yoga, watching a film in the little on-board cinema, and watching the World Cup Rugby matches on the big TVs. I am not sure we’ll be allowed on Brittany Ferries again though as we managed to win all 3 quizzes that were held, and also the “guess how many bottle corks in the box” competition!
We docked in Portsmouth just after 5pm and made good time back to Telford where we said our goodbyes ready for a well-earned rest after an amazing adventure!
Conclusion
The main aim of the expedition was to deliver Summer Mountain Foundation awards to participants in the hope they would pursue further outdoor qualifications. All of these participants were successful in achieving this award and were keen to progress. Several personnel were already in possession of this qualification and were able to draw on their knowledge to assist others as well as to develop their own skill sets and broaden their experiences, vital to a good Mountain Leader. The expedition was a great success and some amazing memories and experiences.
“The expedition was a great one to remember and share, with a plethora of learning experiences for both military and personal development. With the added bonus of a great, fun adventure.” – LBdr Toby Byatt
“This expedition to the Pyrenees has been a great experience. Not only for the adventurous training side and completing my SMF, but also for being able to push myself in uncomfortable and physically demanding situations.” – Tpr Harry Kirk
On behalf of all the individuals who took part in this expedition I am very grateful for the support provided by the Ulysses Trust which helped make this expedition possible.
