Highland Express 23 2023

Over the summer 4 OCdts from ULOTC and 1 from GUOTC took part in Ex Highland Express 23, sailing through the Hebrides in Scotland. The crew sailed through stunning waters experiencing some challenging conditions that put their individual and combined skills to the test.  These OCdts, some of which were novices, developed their Offshore Sailing skills; learning and practicing man overboard drills, engine checks, hoisting sails and anchoring.  This training resulted in the award of the RYA Competent Crew qualification for 4 OCdts a great achievement.   The week was a great success and the OCdts are looking forward to putting their new skills to good use on future opportunities!

Exercise Diary

Tuesday – 08 Aug 23 – OCdt Bajerova   Although the expedition began on Tuesday 8th August with the yacht handover, the crew had been based in Oban since Sunday, allowing for a day to explore this beautiful part of Scotland. We were lucky enough to attend a distillery tour at the Oban Distillery where we were taught about how the unique geography and geology of the area is able to shape the whiskies produced and  learn how businesses like theirs who are so steeped in tradition, are also trying to adapt to become future-proofed and as enviornmentally friendly as they can.  There was also time to get a beautiful run in along the Coastline for some OCdts as well as a few erands before we took over the yacht on the Tuesday.

After a bit of familiarisation with the yacht and some safety briefs we were ready to set off. Before we left, we conducted some coming alongside drills in the marina, where the Mate (and trainee skipper for the week!) could get more familiar with the boat and instructing the crew. We left Dunstaffnage under sail and headed towards Lochaline in the Sound of Mull. Whilst underway we learned how to and practiced putting in and shaking out reefs and learned more about the different parts of the boat. Before coming alongside we conducted man overboard drills in order for the trainee skipper to practice and to ensure the competent crew candidates were able to respond to a man overboard situation safely and efficiently. With pleasant weather and decent wind we were able to sail and make it to Lochaline in good time with the Sun still up. Once alongside we were lead through the process of putting the boat to bed, ready to be able to do it well with less supervision as the course went on.  We enjoyed a delicious dinner and were able to enjoy a beautiful sunset in an idillic location –  a brilliant first day of sailing and a great introduction to the Competent Crew and Day Skipper Qualifications for the crew.      

Wednesday – 09 Aug 23 – OCdt Wright  After our first night on the boat, we woke up to the sun reflecting on the glassy sea. We set out from Lochaline, heading for the Isle of Coll. As the day began, and with increased wind, we began to build upon and develop  crew skills, including practicing taking reefs in and shaking them out. The day was enhanced by sightings of both dolphins and jellyfish whilst underway with everyone  on deck for the sight!  When arriving in Coll, both helm and crew practiced drills picking up mooring buoys, this providing a nice unification between the two, providing solid team work skills and group bonding. This continued when crew had to assemble the dinghy in order to get us on shore where we went for swims, walks and much needed showers before heading back to the boat for a team meal of fajitas. This provided an opportunity for OCdt Bajerova’s skills to flourish in the cleaning of the crew’s kettle- much appreciated by the whole crew for the well deserved brews. The evening then involved being taught how to use the log books, allowing all crew members to successfully complete entries for the following days.

Thursday – 10 Aug 23 – OCdt Yeo We left Loch Eathama in Coll at 0640 and conducted a number of serials picking up a mooring buoy in the harbour. This was especially key for those learning to skipper the yacht and taking control of the crew for the first time. There was very little wind as we departed for Canna so we practiced reefing drills as pairs, which is how we would do it if we were working in watches on a longer passage. This was valuable practice as we faced tougher conditions further into the trip, and meant working in self-sufficient pairs.  As we neared Canna, the wind picked up to a pleasant 20-25 knots, allowing us further practice with man over board drills. It was useful for the trainee skipper to practice these in stronger winds, in less sheltered waters. We picked up a mooring buoy in Canna at 1430 to enjoy an afternoon of exploring the remote island and enjoying a coffee and cake at the only cafe on the island. Some of the crew enjoyed a small hike up the hills and swimming in the clear icy Scottish Sea, surround by nothing but sheep! Two of the crew also had the opportunity to complete a mast climb in order to fix the Windex at the top. This was a great example of teamwork and facing and overcoming challenges.  It was also an important serial for the whole crew as it is a crucial skill needed if there are any issues that need to be fixed during an Exped.

Friday – 11 Aug 23 – OCdt Coughlan On Saturday, we embarked on a journey from the Isle of Canna to the Isle of Skye. We set out from the mooring buoy at 7 am, and as we left the bay, we started heading north toward Skye under engine power. The majority of the journey consisted of a long northerly tack downwind. This provided us with the opportunity to practice putting the preventer in place. The weather during this leg of the trip was excellent, and the crew sat in the cockpit, enjoying the sun and watching dolphins whenever we weren’t engaged in drills.As we approached Skye, we had to navigate the channel of Loch Harport in relatively windy conditions. This required the crew to practice tacking rapidly in quick succession to navigate down the channel. Even though we had been sailing for a few days by this point, the importance of performing routine movements to a demonstration standard was reinforced during this section. We moored in the town of Carbost. Thanks to the excellent speed we had achieved getting to Skye, we had the opportunity to enjoy a pub lunch overlooking the loch. After lunch, we practiced rowing the inflatable dinghy around the harbor as part of the competent crew syllabus, and we also engaged in some general boat maintenance and a serial putting the storm sails up. Considering the early start the next day, we took the chance to have an early night. But before that, I took on the important role of sampling the local Scotch Whiskey from the Talisker Distillery.

Saturday – 12 Aug 23 – OCdt Bajerova Saturday was our earliest start with reveille  at 0445. With a few days  practice under our belts. we were able to get the boat ready swiftly and stepped off at 0510. We quickly encountered strong gusts and this presented a good opportunity to put into practice all the drills we had practiced throughout the week in rough conditions. We put another reef in the main just before we left Loch Harport, providing useful educational point of anticipating the poorer weather before we left the sheltered waters and anticipating the need.  During the passage we had to put in a further reef and even change the foresail while underway which provided excellent training and good practice using the safety strops on out lifejackets! We also experienced the challenges of the general husbandry of the boat in rough conditions such as cooking and cleaning. Lunch was being prepared in the sink to stop it flying back and forth across the galley!  We were also all given a great chance to practice sailing best to wind, putting the theory of the points of sail we had learnt into practice while operating under pressure. Despite the challenging environment we had a very enjoyable sail and made it to Mallaig in the early evening read for some well-deserved fish and chips!

Sunday – 13 Aug 23 – OCdt Wright  Day 6 started by setting off from Mallaig, with a very rainy sail to Tobermory. Good wind direction allowed for a long tack for majority of the journey. This allowed time to further comp crew teachings into practice, providing an opportunity to all take turns on the helm and learn to sail best to wind. The combination of sailing best to wind while taking reefs in and out due to changes in the wind all while trying to get around the headland resulted in a good opportunity to put both skills and theory to the test while under pressure. With the increase in wind and rain, morale was boosted by a sighting of a large pod of dolphins surrounding the boat as well as a seal sighting. We were also very grad for the effectiveness of the foulies we had been issued! As we docked in Tobermory, we were excited to visit the location of the filming of Balamory we explored the area, as well as visiting a local festival which allowed for some OCdts to pay a visit upon a RNLI lifeboat. This was particularly interesting when discussing rescue procedures from the other end of the tow-line to how we are briefed and trained.

Monday – 14th August 23 – OCdt Yeo We departed the small marina in Tobermory and learnt how to drop the anchor, learning the procedure and theory behind it, as well as conducting serial. This included calculating the required length of chain (or rope) needed depending on the depth, called the scope, as well as taking bearings to ensure the anchor is not dragging when on anchor watch. We also learnt how to lasso a mooring buoy, a temporary method of securing a mooring buoy when picking up the tripping buoy is too challenging or indeed unsafe.  After this, we motor-sailed most of the way back down towards Oban Marina. This is when the wind is too weak to move the yacht alone, however when motoring the yacht makes its own wind allowing the sails to be more efficient. We enjoyed brief periods of stronger wind but took the opportunity to relax in the sun and enjoy the calm sea and stunning views. We had an impromptu geography lesson when one of the crew members pointed out smoke from a nearby volcano.  He was quickly corrected by the on-board geography student that this was not pyroclastic flow from a recent eruption but in fact a cloud formed due to evaporation and the local weather.  It was noted that Scotland in fact has no volcanoes so an eruption would be quite improbable. As a crew, we began to clean and pack up the boat whilst motoring, enabling a quick and smooth departure from the yacht at the end of this amazing trip, to allow us to relax and enjoy the final evening in Oban. We also met up with our sister yacht, sailed by Glasgow UOTC, and enjoyed sharing stories about the week over a refreshing pint, before quickly heading to bed and preparing for the long and eventful drive home the next day.

Novice Reflective Statement – OCdt Coughlan:

“Exercise Highland Express was my first sailing expedition with the Army, I also joined the OTC relatively recently – only last September so haven’t really taken part in anything outside of what our unit organizes.  Before taking part I was most apprehensive about meeting and working with a new group of people that already are good friends and know each other. Both the OCdt lead and the Skipper provided me with all the information I needed before the expedition and the logistics of reaching the marina we set off from were easy.

Upon being acquainted with the rest of the crew we were given an overview of all the parts of the boat and set off for the first day of sailing. Everybody was very friendly and I felt comfortable asking questions or for help immediately. I’d completed a skiing and mountain biking course with the army earlier in the year and for the sailing expedition as well as for the other AT I’d taken part in I experienced the same process of going from the very basics not being able to do much to be much more competent in my ability by the end of the week – I really enjoy that transition. Our skipper was excellent, it’s unusual to come across someone who keeps the boat in such good condition with high standards for how we conduct jobs around the boat but also made the trip a more fun experience.

as with learning anything you’re going to make mistakes, I took learning from my mistakes to the next level during this expedition. When completing drills in bad weather above deck it’s important to remember that being shouted at constantly and seemingly getting everything wrong is just part of the learning process but ultimately makes me a better sailor.

By the end of the week, the drills happen quickly and it’s satisfying to be a part of a crew that can quickly configure the boat. The scenery of the expedition was a highlight of the trip, we had the opportunity to see sea life like dolphins and seals swimming alongside. It’s dramatic how the weather changes so quickly, while I do go to university in Glasgow and have been to the Highlands before I’ve never paid so much attention to the weather or had an appreciation for how quickly the day’s conditions can change.  The crew and I became good friends, all sitting up in the cockpit together while sailing and going out to explore the places we stopped at together. This was something I had been apprehensive about before so it was lovely to work with such helpful and friendly officer cadets – I’d definitely take up any opportunity to sail with them again.”

Day Skipper Candidate Report – OCdt Smeaton

“I have been extremely fortunate while I have been an OCdt at ULOTC having taking part in 7 Offshore Sailing AT expeditions prior to Ex Highland Express. Prior to these, I had some experience dinghy sailing, however none on a fully-fledged yacht and even then, only on lakes.  I have been lucky enough to see my skills and confidence on board develop under the tutelage of Maj Hackett and have always had new challenges to look forward to as I concur the last.  Ex Highland Express was much of a culmination of these Expeds where I have learnt how to organise and AT Ex and now how to Skipper a yacht during it.  At the beginning of the Exercise Maj Hackett was instructing and advising me of the role of a Skipper and how to effectively manage the crew, both underway and with the general husbandry of the yacht, however by the end of the Ex he was much more hands off, letting me take my own initiative and schooling me when I strayed from the straight and narrow!

It can be said that as a Skipper he can be at times quite old school and rigid in his ways, however I have never been so appreciative of this. The skills I have been able to develop planning passage ways, appreciating the tide and the weather using the literature and charts and not technology was vital. The confidence it gives to know that were the chart plotter, our mobile phones or other technology to fail, I would still be able to safely Skipper the yacht was significant.  It was also a great benefit to be able to have the safety net of an experienced skipper, allowing me to develop my skills operating in harsh conditions and strong winds that would be unsafe for a Day Skipper to venture out in.

I feel that over the week I have developed my Skippering with Maj Hackett even noting that on the penultimate day he had not even stepped on Deck until we were coming into the Harbour! These opportunities that the OTC provides are truly like no other and on reflection have even benefitted my day-to-day life and my skills as a Medical Student.  I would thoroughly recommend that other OCdts pursue these opportunities as best they can!”