Gaundalen Fjellgard to Gjevsjøen Fjellgard. 30km, 7hrs. The recommended route today follows a line of old pylons that march linearly from the old farm at Gaundalen, through the pine woods and up onto the open moor. It’s dense cloud when I leave and lightly snowing… so I don’t mind the aid to navigation. In the woods the snow is deep, but once I gain more open ground it firms up, becoming smoother, and I make good progress. It feels like I’m in a classic movie set for heaven’s antecambre, a dreamscape with a light from everywhere and nowhere. The cloud thins, and a moon-like sun appears above the indistinct hilltops. The pylons are now coated with rime-ice and the cables that once linked them have long since disappeared. They appear like ghostly apparitions regularly out of the cloud ahead, pass me silently and are swallowed up in the mists behind. For a moment the sky is blue and for the first time in Norway I remember that the sun has strength. I start to descend into the next valley and turn my skis to allow me to weave in between the posts. I’d thought that today, following a pylon line might prove monotonous but this unique ethereal experience is anything but!