In a challenging 6-day expedition along the river Harkan in Sweden, twelve members of Cambridge and London University Air Squadrons put their canoeing skills to the test, completing the foundational canoeing qualification and showcasing their survival abilities. Facing temperatures fluctuating between 0 to 12 degrees Celsius and occasional morning fog, the group embarked on a memorable adventure that included rapids, fishing, and the ethereal Northern Lights.
The journey began with a flight to Norway on 29 September 2023 and a scenic coach ride to Lits Camping in Sweden. Although a luggage mishap left one member shivering due to misplaced cooking gas, the warmth of cabins and a campfire eased the situation, setting the tone for the week ahead. With a tight budget in mind, the team shopped for their week’s rations, strategising on the best food choices. The essentials, along with equipment and spare clothing, were packed into watertight barrels. Next, they travelled to Hotagen Lake, where they mastered the basics of canoeing. A campfire dinner provided a fiery start to their expedition.
The journey continued as the team navigated grade 1 rapids and honed their dynamic risk assessment skills. A refreshing swim, successful fishing and discovery of a traditional Sami house added excitement to the day. The art of risk management was explored, and the group settled into a camp near a dam. Here, they savoured their fishing successes and learned to fillet and cook their catch. Portaging became an essential skill as the group navigated around two dams during the trip but used the power of a dam release to advance their journey quicker than expected. Challenging moments and cold weather didn’t deter the team. Fishing continued to be a significant part of their adventure, and they foraged for wild berries to enhance their morning porridge.
The team paddled cautiously through thick morning fog, sticking close together to maintain visibility. Even by lunchtime, the fog persisted, and the group collaborated to collect wood for warmth. Improved navigational skills led them to their final campsite. Here, they enjoyed a three-course meal under the mesmerising Northern Lights. By this point on the trip, strong relationships had formed between all group members because of the strong reliance on each other to provide shelter, warmth, and food for everyone. Camping throughout the trip was mostly on austere patches of land – with the possibility of firewood being left behind by previous groups – while sleeping in bivvy bags under large tarpaulins. Therefore, setting up camp each night was a test of teamwork greater than members had experienced on other trips and was key in building group resilience.
The following morning, an early start was rewarded with a stunning sunrise and an exploration for beavers, although none were spotted. Evidence of beaver activity and further practice of paddling and portaging skills made up the day. Brunch was a luxurious feast featuring bacon, halloumi, pancakes, and porridge. Their final paddle led them back to Lits Camping, where they cleaned and sorted gear and enjoyed some well-deserved comforts. After a night enjoying these comforts, Isabelle, an Officer Cadet from University of London Air Squadron (ULAS), was heard exclaiming, “wow, now that it’s over, I would happily go paddling down the river for another two weeks!”.
The expedition’s closing days included presentations on theoretical aspects of canoeing, a brisk dip in the lake, a visit to Ostersund, and a final group meal. Participants shared their reflections on the unforgettable journey. On reflection, all of the group are so grateful for the opportunity to experience life in the wilderness and learn such a wide range of skills. Sweden provided a unique opportunity to fully immerse into the wild due to “Allemansrätten”: the freedom to roam and enjoy nature. Maisie, an Officer Cadet in ULAS, talks about her biggest takeaways: “I learned a lot about how I would live off the land, such as how to fish and prepare a fish to eat. I also really enjoyed the experience of whittling and using existing materials to build fires and makeshift tent pegs; it was really rewarding to make something seemingly out of nothing”. The Paddling Bear 2023 expedition was a testament to their resilience and their ability to embrace the challenges and beauty of Sweden’s wilderness. They returned with a newfound sense of accomplishment and unforgettable memories of their 6-day canoeing adventure.
The trip would not have been possible without the support of the Ulysses Trust, which made the expedition possible as well as being a driving force during the 12 months of planning.
