After a few years’ hiatus from overseas mountaineering expeditions, a small group of seven Officer Cadets (OCdts) and staff from London University Officer Training Corps (ULOTC) deployed to Italy for a Mountaineering Foundation Course. Italy was selected over domestic locations such as Wales or Scotland to take advantage of the unique Via Ferrata routes in the Dolomites, offering an opportunity to push participants beyond their comfort zones with more challenging terrain than a standard mountain hike.
The event was conceived and led by a junior-ranking staff member at ULOTC, who was inspired by his own memorable overseas trip as an OCdt at MSUOTC. His aim was to learn how to plan and lead an overseas Adventurous Training (AT) trip, enhancing the UOTC experience and showcasing the diverse opportunities available within the Armed Forces.
To ensure the opportunity was accessible to as many OCdts as possible, costs were kept to a minimum. Selection focused on individuals who had not previously experienced Adventurous Training or mountaineering abroad. The group included a mix of participants, from those with no prior mountaineering experience to those who had achieved Duke of Edinburgh Awards, providing a balance of past experiences and knowledge-sharing throughout the expedition.
Diary
Introduction (Scribe – OCdt A)
On the 6th of September, our mountaineering journey in Italy began. The team consisted of six Officer Cadets (OCdts), one Junior Non-Commissioned Officer (JNCO), and two Majors (instructors). Among the OCdts, some had experience in mountaineering and rock climbing, while others were complete novices. We were all excited to explore the Italian Dolomites and develop new skills during this summer foundation mountaineering course. We looked forward to experiencing the Via Ferrata, staying in alpine huts, practicing navigation techniques, camping, and facing the challenges of mountaineering in various weather conditions. Over the course of the week, we encountered all four seasons—rain, wind, cold, sunshine, and even unexpected snowfall.
Day -1 to 0: Let’s Go
The adventure began on Friday evening when we all arrived at Handel Street in London, filled with anticipation. However, the excitement had to be temporarily put on hold as we conducted essential kit checks in preparation for our Saturday morning departure. The weather forecast predicted torrential rain upon our arrival at the campsite, making it crucial to ensure our tents were properly set up in dry conditions—this practice would prove vital later.
The journey included a brief overnight stop near Stuttgart. For most of the drivers, it was their first experience navigating European roads and German autobahns, which contributed to our slightly delayed arrival at the campsite. Nevertheless, despite the heavy rain, our preparation paid off, and we swiftly set up camp.
Day 1: Leg Stretch
Once the ground began to dry, we met our instructors for the week, Majors Chris and Ian, and learned about the itinerary and the significance of weather in an alpine environment. After dividing into teams of three or four, we embarked on a 12km hike near the campsite. This was a perfect way to ease into the exercise after two long days in the van and to burn off the indulgence of French and German motorway meals.
Upon our return, we settled into a routine. Some of us prepared the evening meal while others handled shopping and planning for the following day, and the rest worked with the instructors to plan upcoming routes.
Day 2: The Iron Way
Via Ferrata, which emerged in the early 1900s, played a crucial role during World War I, enabling faster troop movement through the rugged terrain of the Dolomites. We learned how to properly use the Via Ferrata equipment, the safety measures, and the potential hazards. To build our confidence, the instructors took us on a relatively easy route: the “Via Ferrata Maria e Andrea Ferrari” on Ra Bujela, graded 3A (with 1 being easy and 5 very difficult)
Although the route was considered straightforward, it still challenged our resilience. One OCdt, who had a fear of heights, needed considerable determination, grit, and coaching to overcome it. For beginners, the mental challenge of not looking down and controlling anxiety was the biggest obstacle. Despite the safety equipment, the mind often wrestles with fear, but Via Ferrata is an excellent way to push people beyond their comfort zones.
After completing the route, we still had to trek to our lodge for the evening. Although only 5km away, it was located on the opposite mountainside, requiring a 400m descentfollowed by a challenging 600m ascent. This trek reminded us of the physical demands often associated with military training, though thankfully without the added weight of weapons and extra gear.
Our accommodation for the night was a basic alpine lodge—far from luxurious, with no outlets for charging phones and a limited menu. However, this simplicity is a hallmark of true alpine mountaineering. For many of us, it was our first experience of hearty Italian home-cooked meals paired with a bit of local wine, all topped off with card games before our early start the next day.
Day 3: Summiting
Our lodge was popular with mountaineers attempting to reach Tofana di Rozes, a nearby peak standing at 3,225m. Reaching the summit usually requires an early start, either to avoid the intense summer sun or potential afternoon thunderstorms. Unfortunately, we faced poor visibility due to low-hanging clouds, but we embraced the challenge, learning how to navigate difficult terrain in such conditions.
The route was tough, marked only by stacked rocks that indicated we were still on track. After about an hour and a half of slow progress, hindered by both the terrain and low visibility, we made the tough decision to turn back. Pushing on another 300m to the summit without clear visibility could have risked our safety and taken more time than we had, potentially leading us into unfavorable weather conditions. While it was disappointing to abandon the summit, we all understood the importance of recognizing our limitations and making the right call to ensure safety.
On our way down, we were reminded of Via Ferrata’s origins, as we passed remnants of World War I – i.e barbed wire and tin cans from military rations, still scattered across the landscape after over 100 years.
We returned to the next lodge just in time to avoid a downpour that lasted through the night.
Day 4: Wet, Wet, Wet
The plan for the day was to return to the campsite, review lessons learned, and continue with additional training. We geared up in waterproof clothing and set off through a forest, where the wet and muddy conditions felt more like a UK landscape than an alpine environment. Our plan to catch a local bus from the bottom of the slope was disrupted when the bus failed to arrive, even after a 40-minute wait. So much for the reputation of Italian public transport being timely!
A new plan was devised: three of us would take a taxi back to the campsite to retrieve the minivan. We managed to get everyone back in time to dry off and enjoy a cappuccino before attending lectures on mountain hazards and map reading.
Later that evening, we celebrated with a final course meal, indulging in some of the finest pizza Cortina d’Ampezzo had to offer.
Day 5: Walking in a Winter Wonderland
For our last day, we set off on a simple 2-hour loop near Rifugio Ospitale, consolidating everything we had learned during the week. The weather took an unexpected turn, with snow covering much of the trail due to colder-than-usual September temperatures and our higher altitude. This gave us the final season we hadn’t yet encountered during the trip.
The instructors stepped back to observe, allowing us to take responsibility for navigation and route selection. This gave us the opportunity to develop leadership skills, justify our decisions, and practice leading under real conditions—key aspects of training future military leaders.
Days 6-7: “No One Talks About When Everything Goes to Plan” (Maj H, 2023)
After packing up, we began our journey back to London, with a planned stop in Luxembourg. However, after five hours on the road, our vehicle developed a system fault, allowing us only another 300km before it broke down. A quick call to the AA European desk brought a friendly German mechanic to the scene. His verdict? “It’s kaput.”
Being in Germany on a Saturday afternoon, the next available garage wouldn’t be open until Monday. We resigned ourselves to the possibility of staying an extra day or two, making contingency plans for university and work. Fortunately, the AA quickly arranged a hotel for us and booked flights back to the UK for Sunday afternoon.
We arrived back at Heathrow around 6pm on Sunday—right on schedule. As for the van, it will be making its way back in October on a low loader!
Conclusion (Scribe – OCdt A)
Overall, we came together like a family, looking out for one another and offering help when needed. The Via Ferrata was undoubtedly the highlight for many of us, with its thrilling climbs along the edge of the mountains. The entire experience was new to me, and I learned so much about mountaineering, weather changes, navigation, and techniques like “edges, wedges, and ledges.” I also gained valuable insights into decision-making and leadership through the “what now,” “what if,” and “what next” techniques taught by Major Chris and Major Ian throughout the course.
We are all proud to have completed this foundation course and look forward to returning next year for summer mountaineering training.
Reflection – LCpl G
This was the first trip I had both planned and led while also participating as a student on the course. There were several challenges and delays along the way. Despite having initial approval, the final sign-off was only secured two days before departure. The financial uncertainty from the previous year, when many trips were cancelled, meant I couldn’t fully guarantee that this expedition wouldn’t face the same fate. All planning was done with minimal funding from the Army and with the anticipation that grants might take time to be awarded. As a result, personal contributions were higher than on most expeditions, although I ensured they did not exceed the pay OCdts would receive, so no one was financially disadvantaged. If grants were awarded closer to the departure date, their contributions would be reduced accordingly.
There’s a saying in the military: “Civilians would pay thousands for this.” The Via Ferrata in Italy is a perfect example. Hiring a local instructor for a group of four can cost over €400 for just half a day. Every participant highlighted the Via Ferrata as the most memorable part of the trip. By improving their mountaineering skills, they expressed a strong desire to pursue more opportunities, both in the UK and abroad. It is incredibly rewarding to know I was able to provide an experience that many of them will consider one of the most memorable aspects of their time with UOTC, whether they go on to military or civilian careers.
Despite the challenges and stress before and during the expedition, this has been an invaluable learning experience for both my reservist career and personal development. Managing a group of OCdts can be difficult, especially when unforeseen issues arise, but drawing on my leadership experiences in my civilian career, as well as reflecting on my time as an OCdt, helped us overcome these adversities as a team. Moving forward, I am eager to build on this experience, potentially delivering larger expeditions and working toward instructing in the future.
I would like to express my sincere thanks to The Ulysses Trust. Thanks to their grant and quick decision-making, we were able to plan and achieve more than initially anticipated. Staying in a second lodge was essential, as it allowed us to maximize our time on the mountains and avoid two days of heavy rain.
Quotes:
“In hindsight, it’s safe to say that the controlled exposure to risk on the Via Ferrata that day was worth it, as I would definitely do another Via Ferrata.” (OCdt C after overcoming a fear of heights)
“We learned a more important lesson that sometimes that hardest decisions are knowing when to turn back around.” (OCdt P)
“The thrill of Via Ferrata was my favourite part, feeling alive on the edge of the mountains” (OCdt A)
