Between the 20th and 27th July 2025, 16 personnel, including 2 instructors, 2 SMF Continuation candidates and 12 students working towards their SMF qualification, took part in Exercise Slim Birds, a summer mountaineering expedition through Iceland’s renowned Laugavegur and Fimmvörðuháls trails. With over 75 km of hiking and significant elevation gain, the exercise pushed individuals both mentally and physically while developing core mountaineering and leadership skills in one of the most spectacular natural environments on Earth.
As with the 2023 expedition, planning and delivery were supported by a generous grant from the Ulysses Trust, whose contribution made this development opportunity possible. Building on the previous expedition’s success, we used their detailed groundwork to shape our own planning: adopting the same trail routes, campsites, hostel, transport plans, and safety procedures. The continuity this provided gave us an ideal foundation for delivering a safe, structured, yet challenging exercise for Officer Cadets of varying experience levels.
Day 1 – 20th July: Kit Checks, Flights & Team Bonding: The team assembled at the Army Reserve Centre in Birmingham for a final kit check and evening classroom-based lessons as required for the SMF syllabus. Once complete, we departed by coach to Manchester Airport for our flight to Keflavík, Iceland. After arrival, we transferred to the B47 Hostel in Reykjavik, checked in, and began preparations for the trail ahead.
That evening, OCdt’s S, V H and R rustled up a hearty pasta and meatball meal, which was well received after a long day. During the supply run, one OCdt bought a brightly coloured jester’s hat, which the group quickly adopted as a daily award for the person who had made the biggest fool of themselves the day before. Thus began a hilarious tradition that would continue through the expedition.
Day 2 – 21st July: Onto the Trail: Following a 5:20 a.m. wake-up, our dedicated kitchen team scrambled 60 eggs and toasted two loaves of bread for breakfast, while sous chefs assembled sandwiches for the day ahead. From there, we undertook the short 10-minute hike to the bus stop to catch the HB02 to Landmannalaugar. The journey was memorably bumpy, with one member of the team, OCdt M, recalling the driver cautioning against resting heads on the windows – lest an unexpected jolt from the terrain cause an expensive collision of bone and glass. After river crossings and rugged terrain, we arrived at the trailhead, took initial team photos, and began our ascent.
The day was bright and beautiful. Much to the delight of OCdt VH, who had confidently predicted “shorts weather” for the duration of the trip. The landscape was unlike anything most of the group had seen before: steaming hot springs and colourful rhyolite mountains. The distinctive egg smell of the geothermal vents made its presence known.
Early into the trail, OCdt S – caught up in admiring the scenery rather than watching his step – walked straight into a shallow stream rather than using the nearby bridge, earning the first stint of the jester’s hat. We camped at Hrafntinnusker, where the arctic rations were introduced, and we mingled with fellow hikers from France, Scotland, and Nordic nations while taking shelter from the rain in a small lodge.
“The Iceland expedition allowed me to push past my perceived boundaries and provided me with a far greater understanding and appreciation for the camaraderie that forms in such situations.” – OCdt R
Day 3 – 22nd July: Tent Trouble and Navigation Practice: After packing up and a solid breakfast, we awarded the jester’s hat to OCdt P for confidently claiming that his “two-person” tent (which turned out to be a one-person tent) could fit three people. The first night had proved otherwise, requiring a full reshuffle of tent groups.
Our hike took us through steep valleys and glacial terrain. As the group scaled black sand inclines and navigated boulders, the pace was adjusted to ensure everyone moved together and those at the front and back of the group could be seen at all times for safety. During rest breaks, the instructors led a practical navigation lesson in which OCdts used bearings and features on the ground to identify their position on the map, should they find themselves lost.
Heavy rain arrived in the afternoon, but morale was lifted when we discovered a small, heated cabin with board games and playing cards. The perfect retreat to dry out and socialise before another night in the tents.
“The changing landscapes every day made it one of the most breathtaking trails I’ve ever walked before, as one minute you’re walking across a sand-like trail and the next minute you’re walking across a glacier” – OCdt M.
Day 4 – 23rd July: River Crossings and the Power of Moss: OCdt Campbell-Barnard took home the jester’s hat this morning after dislodging a large rock with his boot during an ascent, startling those below him. The day’s route was flatter, but notable for its surreal scenery – black volcanic soil suddenly gave way to vibrant green moss, creating a neon contrast that felt almost otherworldly.
Several wide river crossings provided both challenge and entertainment. We learned and practised team crossing techniques – linking arms and assessing safe entry and exit points. As no lesson covered what noises to make when stepping into glacial meltwater, each OCdt made their own unique squeals, much to the amusement of onlookers. Afterwards, foot care became the priority: drying feet thoroughly and applying foot powder to prevent injuries.
Importantly, learning from the 2023 expedition, all members had brought well-fitted water shoes – avoiding the loss of Crocs and sliders that had plagued the previous group. That evening, a heated game of snap was played in a cramped 3-person tent sheltering six OCdts, with the pungent aroma of wet boots adding to the ambience.
“Getting to experience the incredible scenery, bonding with the other members of the expedition and all whilst gaining a qualification was an amazing experience and one I would repeat in a heartbeat!” – Ocdt H
Day 5 – 24th July: Grass, Sunshine, and Snap: With the previous night’s footwear odour still fresh in memory, OCdt VH proudly wore the jester’s hat – voted the team member with the smelliest boots. Fortunately, the weather offered some reprieve: clear skies, dry trails, and warm sun lifted spirits. OCdts soaked up the opportunity to dry kit, re-energise, and enjoy the soft grassy surroundings at Basar Campsite – a picturesque site beside a river and the entry to the Fimmvörðuháls trail.
Instructors delivered lessons on terrain risk assessment, route planning, and adapting plans based on group capability and weather. Some braved a cold shower (it was free!) to refresh and test their river-crossing vocal reactions. That night, we enjoyed our first ration pack dinner as a large group, all sat on the grass and had another evening of games.
“The trip was unforgettable. Every day had its own little adventure. The trails were some of the best I’ve ever done, the views were absolutely stunning, and we came home with so many great stories to tell. I’m already missing it.” – OCdt T
Day 6 – 25th July: The Final Push – 2400ft and a Volcano: A tough day began with OCdt T receiving the jester’s hat for underestimating the power of the Icelandic sun when deciding not to apply suncream the previous morning – resulting in a bright red face. The group braced for the most challenging leg: a 24km trek with an initial 2400 ft ascent in just 12km through glacial terrain and volcanic ridgelines. During which, the group had to learn quickly how to evade rock falls by hugging the hillside. Some OCdts still clung to the “shorts weather” philosophy despite wind and driving rain, while others donned waterproofs and grit. We passed Eyjafjallajökull, the now-quiet volcano famous for its 2010 eruption, and navigated old lava fields, glacial ice fields, and slick inclines. The rugged terrain, long distance, sharp inclines and harsh weather pushed everyone into their stretch zones during the long 7.5-hour day.
Upon reaching Skogar Campsite and the majestic Skogafoss waterfall, a sense of triumph washed over the group. Wet clothes were strung out in intervals between showers, and rehydrated curry rations were consumed with a sense of earned satisfaction.
“It was a fantastic trip with incredible landscapes and scenery, even in rainy conditions. We all had a great sense of camaraderie and learnt a lot. Overall an unforgettable experience.” – OCdt VH
Day 7 – 26th July: Recovery and Water Volleyball: The team was allowed a slightly later start to recover from the previous day’s efforts. We boarded a bus back to Reykjavik, breaking the 4-hour journey with a 6-hour layover in a quiet village. Taking local advice, we explored the community’s outdoor geothermal pool, where a competitive game of water volleyball broke out. OCdts managed a rally of three consecutive returns – a new sporting record.
Later, we relaxed in a sunlit park, reading about the local area before heading back to the hostel. That evening we completed final SMF lessons, including instruction on weather systems and route risk analysis. Reflecting on the trip, many OCdts expressed how much they had learned and grown during the expedition.
“The Laugavegur trail was a great experience and managed to test on us on longer walks with steep terrains as well as dealing with the unpredictability of the weather and preparing accordingly. It also gave us the experience of camping out overnight on the mountains, as well as allowing us to chat with friends and enjoy the scenery of Iceland. The last walking day was definitely the toughest, with the longest distance walked, the greatest ascent, and the most challenging weather. However, despite this we still managed to push through and make it to the end of the trail.” – OCdt T.
Day 8 – 27th July: Return and Reflection: A 04:00 wake-up saw the group head back to the airport for the return flight to Manchester and onward transport to Birmingham for de-kitting and a final debrief. Despite being tired and damp, morale was high, and all agreed that Exercise Slim Birds had delivered not just an adventure, but a transformative experience.
“A great week of hiking around some of the most beautiful scenery I’ve seen, despite the occasional poor weather on some of the days. Nevertheless, everyone was in good spirits throughout, and the trail we followed was perfect to introduce us to the world of hiking, allowing us to learn lots along the way. Certainly a trip I will remember for a long time and always look back on with fond memories.” – OCdt C-B
Conclusion: Exercise Slim Birds 2025 was a success in every sense. It provided meaningful leadership training, mountaineering experience, and character development for a diverse group of officer cadets and instructors. Those pursuing their ML qualifications gained essential logbook days and instructional experience, while first-time participants were introduced to the unique rewards of adventure training in one of the world’s most dramatic landscapes.
The expedition strengthened team cohesion, taught valuable skills in resilience and safety, and created memories that will last a lifetime – from river-crossing shrieks to the honour (or shame) of wearing the jester’s hat.
We offer our deepest thanks to the Ulysses Trust and all other supporters for making this expedition possible.
