With the support of the Ulysses Trust, 100 (Yeomanry) Regiment Royal Artillery embarked on an epic mountaineering adventure – trekking the Grande Randonnee’ 20 (GR20) from the South to the North of the Mediterranean island of Corsica, starting in Conca and finishing some 16 days later in Calenzana. The GR20 is widely regarded as one of the hardest trekking route in Europe.
The GR20 is a spectacular 180 km (112 miles) trail climbing 12,000m, that winds its way along the jagged spine of Corsica’s mountainous centre. Despite the rugged nature of much of the terrain, it is a hike that is within the capabilities of confident backpackers. It is well marked, supported by regular refuge’ accommodation and intermittent resupply options.
The rough itinerary for the expedition was kept simple – days 1-7 covered the southern portion of the route with an admin day on day 8. Days 9-16 covered the northern portion, considered to be the more mountainous and rugged section.
For the most part, the terrain of Corsica is high and mountainous. About two-thirds of it consists of an ancient crystalline massif that divides the island on a northwest-to-southeast axis. The island has a cluster of 20 peaks exceeding 6,500 feet (2,000 metres). Monte Cinto, the highest peak, rises to an elevation of 8,890 feet (2,710 metres). The mountain silhouettes are very dramatic, and their granite rocks display vivid colours and, while beautiful to view, are extremely abrasive on footwear. The mountains descend steeply in parallel ranges to the west, where the coast is cut into steep gulfs and marked by high cliffs and headlands. To the east the mountain massif falls in broken escarpments to extensive alluvial plains bordering a lagoon-indented coast. In the northeast a separate and less-spectacular mountain formation reaches heights not exceeding 5,790 feet (1,765 metres).
Daily trekking routine – Using the best of the early light to walk, we would wake in darkness and prepare breakfast before setting off at dawn for the day’s trek. The aim being to complete each leg before the hottest part of the day. This meant an early night each day frequently seeing us zipping into our sleeping bags before 8pm. Given the changeable nature of the terrain no two days were the same in terms of distance or height gained, but as a general rule for the hardest steepest days 1 km an hour was consider good, while on the longer less severe days we managed to achieve 5 km per hour.
The long walks each day were made informative and fun by the mountain leaders and members of the group sharing experiences and stories. Little dits about the terrain, geology and flora and fauna made each day different and informative.
As we were self-sufficient for the exercise carrying our tents, water, spare clothing and sleeping bags it was important to keep the weight down. We opted for dried rations (pasta, noodles etc..) and light-heartedly compared our flavours daily, joking if one of us had inadvertently packed the same flavour for days at a time. The dehydrated meals are great but we don’t want to see any again, well not until our next adventure.
Wild camping on the mountain wasn’t easy, arriving early at the campsite was a must, to bag the flattest pitches while ensuring the location wasn’t down wind of the toilet block! We worked in pairs as ‘buddy buddies’ to reduce weight and share equipment, this worked really well and aided our cohesion. Though a single military unit, 100 Regt RA is nationally based rather than being at one Reserve Centre. Consequently many of the personnel hadn’t met each other before starting the trek, increasing the importance of this opportunity to bond and learn more about each others roles and lives.
On two occasions during the exercise we were beaten by the weather. Horizontal wind, lightning strikes, rain and a little hail temporally closed the route and all we could do was to wait it out. With tents separated by temporary rivers of rain water we were helpless and watched as other trekkers abandoned ship for alternate ground. Once the rain passed the poorer administrated trekkers (none of our group) were able to collect belongings that had gathered at the bottom of camp in a large puddle.
The steep mountainous terrain made the group move diligently, building confidence as we tackled the more exposed sections. Each member of the group rotated through point navigator, developing knowledge of group management, route selection, rest stops and group pace. We could see every group member growing in strength and resilience as each day was completed.
Do it again? Maybe, but more probably the coast to coast route, East to west is another option orto complete the GR 20 in a fastertime, carrying lighter kit, potentially doing it in 12 days The fastest time to complete the 180kms is a spectacular 30hrs, I don’t think we will be doing that quickly.
