The AMA winter meet is a highlight of the year, weather permitting and, for the last two years has been based in Glencoe. This is a world class destination for winter mountaineering and the Glencoe hostel provides an excellent base. On arrival we met our instructor for the week, Andy Hogarth, a runner who climbs winter grade VIII on the side.
The aims of the meet were to develop teamwork and resilience and for those preparing for assessments to gain experience and WQMDs.
We wasted no time ticking off that aim. The first two days were spent on Buachaille Etive Mor climbing Curved Ridge and North Buttress under glorious blue skies. These were big days on the hill and set the tone for the rest of the week. The routes themselves are both classic climbs, offering spectacular views and superb climbing. The routes also offered a brilliant shakeout for moving on very much mixed terrain, often in quite an alpine style (read: conditions were often very lean).
The third day started with another big walk in, this time to Stob Coire Nan Lochan. The freezing level had dropped which led naturally to a discussion of avalanche risk and how to assess the condition of a climb. As the coire was quite busy we climbed Pinnacle Buttress Groove, a blocky route with enjoyable climbing that appears in very few guide books. After abseiling off this we approached the base of Raeburn’s Route, another classic. It was at this point Andy said; “I don’t think we’re actually going to climb this.” A short glance up revealed why. The climb was dripping wet, and in poor condition for a safe and enjoyable winter ascent. Andy’s decision was vindicated as we began our retreat and a large lump of rock came whizzing past us.
Over the next two days the weather along the West Coast was set to be warm and wet, leaving little hope for good climbing. Therefore, we headed East, to the Cairngorms. The two hour drive is offset to some extent by the shorter walk in and over two days we climbed Haston Line into the Messenger and the first two pitches of Honeypot. These felt like proper winter days, battling against wind and occasionally being smashed by spindrift. The Cairngorms also offered more exposure to different styles of climbing; Haston line sticks in the memory due to a big move on positive hooks and Honeypot for the opposite, obvious yet relatively delicate moves moving systematically upwards. Every pitch offered fantastic climbing and even the screaming barfies (rewarming of very cold hands) couldn’t wipe the smiles off our faces.
With the forecast improving in Glencoe we headed back to the hostel ready for the sixth day. There were a few options available but the lure of a winter traverse of the Aonach Eagach Ridge proved too good to miss. We put the afterburners on during the approach to move ahead of the many people who had also decided to make the most of the blue skies and attempt the traverse. Chris Dowd, who completed the traverse just ahead of us summed it up best; “Some people wait a lifetime for a traverse of the Aonach Eagach on a day like that.” It was indeed an unforgettable experience. We moved fast thanks to a masterclass in short-roping from Andy and witnessed spectacular 360 degree views from start to finish.
Which left just the final day, a Saturday with a good weather forecast. Cue hordes of people at the car park. We left earlier than usual and flew up the walk-in to Stob Coire Nan Lochan. Despite passing several teams on the way the crag was still busy. Fortunately we were the first on Raeburn’s Route, another classic. Having climbed it, it is easy to see why; it had a bit of everything from frozen turf, to steep sections and balancy traverses. What a route!
We would like to thank the Ulysses Trust for their continued support of Army reserve adventurous training. We have both greatly benefitted from expeditions and instruction funded by the Ulysses Trust and witnessed the positive benefits of adventurous training for individuals in the army reserves. We would also like to thank Chris Dowd for organising the meet and Andy Hogarth for his superb instruction. We have had seven days of amazing climbing and significantly increased the base of experience we are currently building. Our future aims are to continue climbing and organise expeditions ourselves so that more people are exposed to the mountains and are able to benefit as we have.
