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Akkastugorna to Hukejaure. 52km 9 1/2hrs. Akkastugorna was the first manned mountain hut of my journey. I’m nearing Easter and cabins are officially opening. After three nights alone the handful of people at the cabin made it seem busy. My friend Håkon had told me that the Swedish do discipline very well, remember the Karoliner […]

Arasluokta to Akkastugorna. 45km 9 1/2hrs. I didn’t want to get up. The cabin was cold, minus 28C outside and no wood stove only an ineffective gas heater. But what to do… bad weather in four days and two hundred kilometres to Abisko. My legs felt wooden and I wasn’t looking forward to another day

Sorjoshytta to Arasluokta. 42km 9hrs. An immaculate dawn over the Sulitjelma peaks gave me a boost on my way today. I have five good days before the weather turns against me with snow and strong winds forecast. So my plan is five big days out in the wilderness to Abisko. Each day between 40-50km. 😱

Sulitjelma Fjellandsby to Sorjoshytta. 25km 71/2hrs. Yesterday I ran out of maps. I had not been concerned because I’d thought they were in my resupply box, but alas no. I researched options furiously last night, with some local help from @hansrichardbrathen 😉🙏 In the end Erland who runs @sulitjelma_fjellandsby came to the rescue by ringing

Balvashytta to Sulitjelma. 25km 4hrs. This morning dawned clear of any lingering frustrations over yesterday’s snow. A dusting of new snow gave the icy lake surface enough grip to enjoy the view of Saulo over the border in Sweden. A sociable breakfast with the boys and 9km across the lake brought me to the Coarvihytta

Lønstua to Balvashytta. 38km 10hrs. I knew today had the potential to be complicated, a lot of terrain to cover, and numerous hidden features hinted at by the contours on my 1:100 000 map. I started early across a small suspension bridge following the summer path towards a place called Graddis. A chaotic maze of

Bolnastua to Lønstua. 32km 6hrs. Today I crossed the Arctic circle! A wonderful feeling… a real milestone in this journey, and one that I wrote about in various articles before starting. Remarkably I cross it pretty much to the day that I estimated… I have now skied 1525km during 368hrs in the 55days since starting

Virvasshytta to Bolnastua. 24km 5 1/4hrs. Last night I saw the northern lights! 😍 The clouds had been blown fast away by sunset to leave a clear sky which inhaled all remaining warmth as the stars appeared one by one… The only upside I can see of an outdoor toilet when it is -25C is

Kvitsteindalstunet to Virvasshytta. 22km 5 1/2hrs. From the warmth of the cabin I heard the wind ease slightly in the early hours of the morning. It was enough to encourage me out of bed… Oatmeal and coconut milk thanks to @thecoconutcompanyco fired me up ready to brave another day. I put all my clothes on,

Umbukta to Kvitsteindalstunet. 26km 8hrs. Wind; Tireless, tiring, unrelenting wind. I wake and I’m excited about the day ahead. I feel rested, and the quiet hunger that sits within me these days is silent, sated. I’ve heard wonderful things about the Rana cabins, and the next few weeks should be very beautiful. As I shoulder

Rest day at Umbukta Fjellstue. What a wonderful sensation to wake up with the sun shining through the curtains and know I’m not skiing anywhere today. I peek outside and see the Norwegian flag beating fast against the flagpole, it’s very windy… but nice and warm and snug inside. I pull the duvet up and

Steilvasselva to Umbukta. 33km 9 1/4hrs. Only one thing is constant in life; change, and the weather has changed. I looked at the forecast last night and saw more cloud and more importantly more wind for the coming days. As a result today was relatively demanding, more so because of linking two short days into

Krutfjellhytta to Steilvasselva. 26km 8 1/2hrs. Through the thin, still mists of morning I emerge from the silver birch woods lining Krutvatnet onto the upper fjell. I push my skis ahead rhythmically, like two narrow-boats cutting through clear water… a perfect clean ski-track arcs away behind me. I confess to taking a certain pride in